Fibre brand has almost tripled the number of mills working with its Tencel Lyocell HV100 fibre in the past year.
12th October 2026
Innovation in Textiles
| Lenzing, Austria
The Remod collection, to be introduced at Kingpins Amsterdam this week (October 14-15), explores how three different types of Tencel Lyocell fibre can be used to create contrasting denim textures, weights and finishes, including constructions containing no cotton.
The fabrics have been woven at Kaihara’s vertically integrated mill in Hiroshima, building on a relationship with Lenzing that dates back to the 1990s.
The collection includes heavyweight men’s jackets, mid-weight wide-leg and stretch jeans and casual shirting. It combines conventional denim manufacturing techniques with different fibre blends to achieve specific fabric characteristics.
Central to the development is Tencel Lyocell HV100, first introduced at Kingpins Amsterdam in October 2025 as a cotton-like alternative to standard lyocell fibres.
The fibre employs Lenzing’s Variocut technology to introduce controlled variations in fibre length, creating the subtle irregularities and more opaque, matte appearance associated with cotton denim.
A second fibre, Tencel Lyocell dtex 2.2, has a coarser structure and a fibre length of 51mm. It produces a drier, stiffer handle and natural slub effects resembling linen, adding body and structure to fabrics without significantly increasing weight.
Standard Tencel Lyocell, meanwhile, contributes softness, drape and colour depth.
By varying the proportions of these three fibres, with or without cotton, Kaihara has developed a series of fabrics demonstrating how different characteristics can be achieved within the same fibre family.
“Texture is one of the most defining elements of premium denim, shaping both its character and visual appeal,” said Akihiro Maehara, director of Kaihara’s market planning division. “For this collection, we harnessed the unique attributes of each Tencel Lyocell fibre type to add value to the denim in distinct ways, creating fabrics that balance authentic denim aesthetics with softness, drape and comfort.”
Growing mill network
The launch coincides with the announcement of a third group of manufacturing partners for Tencel Lyocell HV100.
When the fibre was introduced a year ago, Lenzing had established a network of 17 mills in five countries. This increased to 37 mills across nine countries by April 2026 and has now reached almost 50 mills in 13 countries, with Indian manufacturers joining for the first time.
An important factor in this expansion has been the fibre’s compatibility with existing spinning, weaving and finishing operations.
According to Lenzing, mills can process HV100 using their established machinery, chemicals and production methods, avoiding the need for additional capital investment.
This allows manufacturers to introduce new fibre blends and fabric constructions without making significant changes to their production lines.
For brands, the expanding mill network also offers a wider choice of sourcing partners capable of supplying fabrics incorporating the fibre.
“Planning a denim programme means committing months ahead, so a material that behaves predictably – in supply, in processing, in how it wears – is worth a great deal,” said Tuncay Kılıçkan, head of global business development for denim at Lenzing. “A year on, close to 50 mills have already brought the fibre into their products, which means a brand can explore a broader material palette for future collections and know where to source it.”
The Remod collection will be presented at Lenzing’s stand 19 in the yellow zone at Kingpins Amsterdam, alongside other developments from its textile fibre portfolio.